Not the best of weather conditions to taste such young wines - no, they don't make us taste them outside (!) - but there are those who believe air pressure, too high or too low, plays a great part in 'dumbing' down or 'troubling' young wines, therefore not allowing them to show at their best ......
It might indeed explain a few of the glaring disappointments from today's tastings which I will not name (yet) in deference to the weather.
However, the majority of the wines I've tasted today have been a real joy and a real pleasure. Seriously classy claret, great definition of individual appellations and Chateaux themselves, worth the hype.
We started right up in Pauillac at Chateau Batailley which hosted this year's Pauillac, St Julien and St Estephes's UGC tasting. No real surprises in the 'stand-out' wines, in no particular order: Gruaud Larose, Lagrange, Langoa Barton, Leoville Baeton (oh so seriously classy!), Leoville Poyferre, Talbot (major crowd-pleaser this year), Clerc Milon, d'Armailhac, Lynch Bages (fabulous), the two Pichons, Lafon Rochet and Phelan Segur ...
Not much there I didn't like actually!
Blown on down to Margaux where as usual there were a few more 'gaps' in quality but also some absolute beauties: Durfort Vivens (not that we're biased), Brane Cantenac, Cantenac Brown, Desmirail, Giscours, Marquis de Terme, and Abi's and my favourite, the wonderfully exuberant and super appealing Kirwan.
The Listrac, Medoc, Moulis tasting, held at Chateau Cantemerle was most definitely a step down however. I was surprisingly hard pushed to get excited over these (hard to believe I know) although Poujeaux, Cantemerle, La Tour Carnet and La Tour de By saved the day.
And finally the unctuously sweet sweeties of Sauternes..... Rieussec is outstanding, truly seriously outstanding, Suduiraut refreshingly classy with hints of apricot and honey, La Tour Blanche ridiculously sweet and Doisy Daene quirkily different.
We have made individual Chateau appointments and are being ushered in to the the cellars of the First Growths and 'Super Seconds' tomorrow - irreverently known as the 'too posh to pour brigade' as they do not show their wines at the general tastings preferring to make their customers trek right up to the cellar door to taste ....
Actually, I can't wait. If today's anything to go by, tomorrow will be a real treat.
Clare Tooley
Visit laithwaites.co.uk
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