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Tuesday, 23 March 2010

One week to go before the Bordeaux UGC opens its doors to the world’s wine trade. Countdown has begun.

It’s 21 degrees here this afternoon, the spring sun is shining and the air is already heavily scented with the mimosa blossom which is now out in full golden glory.

It’s going to be an extraordinary week; I can’t remember EVER feeling this excited about the Primeurs tasting week in the two decades I’ve played this game. Perhaps it’s because I live here now. Perhaps it’s because I’ve had a chance to taste some wonderful 2009 vintage wines already. Perhaps it’s because I know how proud the Bordelais are of their region and their wines and receiving the world and its wife this coming week is a real highlight for them. Whatever the reason, I know we’re in for an absolute treat.

This will be a campaign for the fittest and toughest only mind you. Allocations will be squeezed, prices will climb, some Chateaux will panic and may end up doing ‘n’importe quoi’, others will be wise and shrewd and play a long-term game. Nail-biting and strategy aside, the wines themselves will THRILL us.

Here’s one I prepared earlier … and am really proud to be able to bring exclusively to LW customers. You may remember last year we created a special Cuvee with St Emilion Grand Cru Chateau Tertre Daugay. We called it ‘L’Epiphanie’ to mark what a gratifying moment we had working with them on something so unique. Well, I’ve been over to the other side of the river, the Left Bank, to find its perfect partner and can now announce the birth of ‘L’Epiphanie de Durfort Vivens’ from the 2nd Grand Crus Classes Margaux Chateau Durfort Vivens.

The property overlooks Chateau Margaux itself and was actually the 2nd wine of Chateau Margaux in the 1960s. Its vines are intermingled with Chateau Margaux’s own vines. Its other prestigious neighbours are Chateaux Palmer and Rauzan Segla. When I visited the property back at harvest time, I was immediately struck by the quality:

I went to the Medoc and Margaux this morning to spy on the Cabernets. Gonzague Lurton of Durfort Vivens - one of my most trusted Left Bank Crus Classes producers for his honesty, twinkle and intelligence - is also all smiles and black teeth. His Merlot is in, 15 degrees alcohol in some Cuves, and he has started his young Cabernet.

His tasting room overlooks Chateaux Margaux, Palmer and Rauzan Segla vineyards so a perfect window on what his neighbours are doing this year - and it appears everyone is enjoying their own rhythm, setting their own pace, there are no weather constraints and the fruit is healthy. Leoville Barton finished last week; others are just beginning. The vigneron is master of his own harvest this year ..... rare here.

Gonzague Lurton generously opened his doors last week and invited me to select our own wine from the Chateaux’s barrels and create our own premium cuvee. Our Cuvee will be treated in exactly the same way as the Chateaux’s own first wine, the same ageing in the same types of barrels, the same lavished care by the Chateaux winemaker with our own Mark Hoddy’s presence, in the same cellar.

The Chateaux’s own blend by the way is outstanding. I’m privileged to be amongst the first to taste it.

I wouldn’t dream of pretending ours is better, just different. Our Margaux ‘Epiphanie de Durfort Vivens’ is compellingly aromatic, lusciously fruit-filled and creamily tannic. I hope you’ll enjoy drinking it in time as much as I’ve enjoyed working on it. Watch out for our release.

7 days to go, and counting, before the world starts tasting …..

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