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Tuesday, 6 April 2010

Last but by no means least, we made our way around the prettier roads of the Right Bank

Thursday 1st April
Last but by no means least, we made our way around the prettier roads of the Right Bank, starting in Libourne at the Moueixs, then on to Pomerol via Chateau Cheval Blanc, and to Chateau Beausejour Becot for the Saint Emilions.

Once again, some exceptional wines to taste - just a bit harder perhaps, more traditionally Primeur in their rawness, but unquestionably special. I could have stayed at the Moueix tasting all day to be honest. Their line up including Chateaux Magdelaine, Belair Monange, Certan de May, Trotanoy, Lafleur a Pomerol and Lafleur Petrus showed poise, balance and a lightness of touch which some others in the later UGC tastings that day perhaps lacked. Their Hosanna is breathtaking. Look out for their Chantallouette Pomerol and Puy Blanquet Saint Emilion - we'll offer these very soon; they're cracking and should offer good value in what will no doubt be an over heated market.

Continuing our belief in the second wines of the Grands Chateau this year, Petit Cheval, little brother of Cheval Blanc, is beautiful - all bouquet and sweet Cabernet Franc - delicious.

The Pomerols did it for me this year - over the Saint Emilions. They were all winners with Chateaux Gazin and Clinet leading the way with supreme style, class and concentration. The Saint Emilion Merlots have soaked up their oak rather quickly and are at this very early stage, massive and a touch flashy - lashings of spice, liquorice and heat; appealing to some maybe, not my bag right now but I feel sure they will calm down over the next couple of years and once bottled will be supremely regal, juicy and exuberant. The charmers for me were Chateaux Figeac, Clos Fourtet, La Dominique, La Gaffeliere, Pavie Macquin and Larcis Ducasse (STAR quality)

Our team trip ended at Pavie - always big powerful wines, this year is no exception. I rather liked them.

I consoled myself at Chateau Ausone once the others left to catch their plane. I felt I'd come full circle in the day, returning to the lightness of touch and quintessence of Merlot we had glimpsed at Moueix, up in the birds nest perch of Ausone where Vaulthier's Chateaux de Fonbel, Moulin St George, Chapelle d'Ausone and Ausone itself are remarkable and oh so very long on the finish.

Black teeth and tired gums today, but still plenty of magic and merlot to die for.

Clare Tooley

Thursday, 1 April 2010

I am writing this on Thursday - the day after an extraordinary day in the Medoc visiting the stellar caste of individual First Growth and 'Super Second' Chateaux.

I didn't sleep well at all last night - I simply couldn't shut my eyes and close down my mind on what was probably the most enjoyable and fascinating Primeurs tastings I have ever done.

Wines with the WOW factor, exciting, vibrant, gentle giants, pure pleasure, exquisite definition, style, class, elegance ..... I shouldn't go on. It shows a lack of imagination perhaps to use such superlatives - but I'm not the only one. Ask Abi and the team - we were all bowled over, over and over again by what we tasted.

It poured down all day, the roads in the Medoc are flooded, the vineyards awash, a miserable miserable day to be out on the roads. But we ploughed on and what we found at the Chateaux made up for the muddy misery!

We covered Mouton, Lafite, Latour and Margaux. Oh boy - Mouton is a velvet gloved boxer, Lafite a charming powerhouse, Latour a wild and wildly exciting child and Margaux a timeless flawless beauty. We also visited Cos d'Estournel (an exotic dragon), Montrose (elegance in a glass), Leoville Lascases which left us all reeling with the pleasure of it, and Pontet Canet - fresh, classy, vibrant and exciting.

They were all, apart from Montrose, immensely approachable now, generous, giving, textured like velvet, creamy tannins, vibrant fruit.

We were particularly struck by the second wines of the great Chateaux this year - Carruades, Fort de Latour, Dame de Montrose, Pagodes de Cos - we loved them, they stood on their own and sang beautifully.

I will assemble more 'serious' notes next week, but will end this blog by saying yesterday was unique, it has marked me and will remain with me for a very long time. I believe we had a taste of Magic in a Glass.


Clare Tooley

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